I've been listening to Josh Ozersky being interviewed on Chris Gondek's University of Texas Press podcast about his book Colonel Sanders and the American Dream. When discussing how difficult it is not just for KFC but for any restaurant to make good gravy, Ozersky says:
I'm a food writer who lives in New York City. I eat out all the time. And now we're in this wonderful lardcore renaissance and all these Southern chefs are trying to cook things here. None of them makes good pan gravy. I haven't had a first-rate pan gravy since Sean Brock cooked chicken in a pan for me at Husk.In other words, don't order gravy in New York. Come down here to Charleston.